Engine Repair & Rebuild · Cleveland, OH
When it's more than an oil leak, you want a builder — not a parts swapper.
Top-end work, gasket replacement, full rebuilds. Measured, documented, broken in right.
Engine work is where documentation matters most. Every engine we open gets measured against service limits — compression, leak-down, clearances — and you get the numbers, not just an opinion. Then you decide: repair, rebuild, or (honestly) whether the bike is worth it. Sometimes the right answer is our parts program, not a rebuild, and we'll tell you that.
Rebuilds are assembled with torque logs, new fasteners where spec requires, and a documented break-in procedure. Engine jobs include trailer pickup — no one is riding a bike that's making metal.
Get it looked at when
- Smoke: blue (oil), white (coolant), or fuel-rich black
- Knocking, ticking that isn't valves, or bottom-end rumble
- Losing coolant or oil with no visible leak
- Low or uneven compression, hard starting when warm
- Metal flakes in the oil or on the drain plug magnet
What's included
- Compression and leak-down testing with written results
- Top-end work: pistons, rings, valves, seals, gaskets, timing
- Full rebuilds measured against factory service limits
- Machine-work coordination (boring, honing, valve seats)
- Documented assembly with torque logs and break-in schedule
Pricing: Engine work starts with a diagnostic and a written estimate. You approve the numbers before anything is opened up.
Straight answers
Engine Repair & Rebuild FAQ
Is my engine worth rebuilding?
The honest math: rebuild cost vs. the bike's running value vs. a good used engine from our parts program. We'll lay out all three numbers after diagnosis. Sometimes the answer is "sell us the bike and let us part it" — and we'll say so.
How long does a rebuild take?
Top-end jobs typically run 1–2 weeks depending on parts and machine work; full rebuilds longer. Winter is the smart time — drop it off in December, ride it in April.
My bike smokes a little at startup only. Bad?
A puff of blue at cold start that clears is usually valve stem seals — annoying but not urgent. Smoke that continues once warm is rings or bores and worth a compression test soon.